There was a marked departure from Mr Ford’s previous high glam, glitzy collections here, with an abundance of puffed sleeves, patchwork and a hint of prairie on show, and not to mention a cacophony of colour. The monochrome-tastic opening outfits, dresses with layered ruffled skirts which later became fabulously fringed were transformed into separates mixing his much loved, sexed up denim with the addition of a patchwork multicoloured palette and leopard skin. The fur coats were fierce and occasionally downright frightening over leather and suede, the evening dresses were slashed, sheer, fringed with cut outs in all the right places. Jewellery was big and bold – knotted statement necklaces and long, long earrings. The balance between the divine evening wear and the multicoloured patch work “casual” wear (not that you can ever call Tom Ford that) was perfect – anyone could quite happily go from day to night with Tom. (The show was so glitz he even held it in LA, normally it’s in London so it’s still included here).
With many other designers still on a clear 70s trip, the homage to the 80s was obvious in the British designer’s latest collection. The mix and match feel was a refreshing change to the more polished collections around. Bright silk skirts were paired with more understated striped cotton tops, the leather skirts tied at the side with large circular buckles screamed “wear me.” The slouchy leather boots in primary colours also kicked up a fuss.The fabrics were a mish mash joy – metallics, jacquard, lame and lurex. There was a stark contrast between the angular box shapes of some jackets to the sleeker, more modern shoulders of other outfits. Could you call it New New Wave fashion? Stand out-fits? The graffiti graphic top and leggings combo, the fantastic first look metallic dress teamed with yellow slouch knee high boots. And did I mention the leather side buckle skirts? It made me want to dig out my mum’s old white stilettos.
Mary Janes and ankle socks? Tick. Lots of sheer? Check. Even though there were some very definite key trends apparent at Simone Rocha, the majority of the collection could only be described as unique. There was an overall Renaissance feel, with looks bordering on the hauntingly romantic. The fabrics – velvet, chenille, organza and tulle were sumptuous, as were the mussed up side ponytails and occasional face art. The padded velvet shapes at the beginning melted into heavily embroidered pieces, then some memorable tapestry fabrics which created almost sculpture-like looks. There were some beautiful coats and fur embellishments and a splash of whimsy was added with leaf covered tulle and cloud like shapes adorning dresses. The finale involved red plaid and more mesmerising tapestry with dainty flowers wound around the models’ necks – lacking in originality? Certainly not!
House of Holland
You can always rely on Mr Holland to bring the fun to Fashion Week. Even with an army of street urchins/Les Mis extras looking stern, the fun was still apparent in the clothes. There was plenty of his signature check/tartan and layering – don’t be afraid to put padding with checks and pleats. The neck ties and the occasional suspender belt-like attachments to the front of skirts and tops gave it all a more grown up, sexier feel. There were peplums, asymmetric hems, plenty of velvet and full on yellow and black wasp like/hazard tape stripes at one point. Favourite looks? Anything involving purple shearling (on a bag, a puffed up sleeveless sweater, wide around the waist) and the kick ass navy blue jacket with shearling sleeves and royal blue teeth adorning the lapels. Material of the moment shearling also featured in the show stopping final looks – the multicoloured striped knee length gilet/dress will become a bloggers favourite – this man will get you noticed.
Day 3 will be posted tomorrow and will feature Gareth Pugh, Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood Red Label and Mary Katrantzou.