Clare Waight Keller, Creative Director of Chloe, could have veered off into flouncy, annoying territory with this collection, but managed to pull off an array of great silhouettes with some new twists on old classics. There was plenty of cheesecloth and denim, strong fabrics that are synonymous with workwear, which managed to look feminine and sexy. Gladiator sandals have been the shoe of choice over Fashion Month, however here they arrived in a variety of length and with an elegant wedge. Stand out looks were the denim washed hoodie, grey short suit and I particularly liked the floor length buttoned denim skirt. Yes there was floaty, with billowing tulle dresses but it wasn’t overly flouncy. Chloe founder Gaby Aghion died on the day of the show, this was a fitting tribute.
After being best known for sweaters boasting rottweilers and Bambi recently, it was a welcome return to form for Riccardo Tisci, who brought sexy back to the Givenchy catwalk. It was all Game of Thrones with a bit of Joan of Arc thrown in for good measure, exquisite corsetry lacing, Gladiator style dresses slashed to below the bust, lace peeking out underneath strips of leather. The over-the-knee peep toe boots were the perfect pairing to these “don’t mess with me” outfits. Everyone lauded the makeup all over social media, Pat McGrath’s batwing brown eyes turned into the gold standard of looks. It certainly was kick-ass.
Functional and fluid were two words that sprung to mind whilst flicking through this collection, the functionality of flight suits and wide buckled straps featured on tops. The fluidity of the parachute silk which billowed out behind a parade of the world’s top models. There was some risqué cut outs (not sure how many people will wear them on the hips). Denim reared its head yet again but to good effect (see the buckle strapped tabard top and skirt above top right) and there were some interesting/beautiful floral and animal prints in the finale.
With possibly one of the best model turnouts in Paris (Miranda Kerr, Edie Campbell, The Jaggers, Joan Smalls, Maliaka Firth), designer Julie de Libran (Sonia retired in 2009) managed to make workwear look sexy. Again we saw flight suits and lots of denim, but with little twists such as elasticated ankles and lots of fringing. There was also great use of buttons and lots of midriff/crossover tops (not sure if they will be all that practical outside the gym). There was also just enough shearling to be on trend. The signature stripes were heavily featured but not in an obvious way, on knits, bags and even socks.
Part 4 sees Saint Laurent, Chanel, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu!!!