This morning saw John Galliano’s much anticipated second couture collection for Maison Margiela. The artisanal element was in full force, with amazing detail, clashing fabrics and surrealist make up.
The first flurry of outfits down the runway were predominantly white – safari style utility jackets and skirts softened by cinched in waists and exquisite details (a gold collar, a metallic flourish) teamed with leather slouch boots. Pleats and an elaborate curved embellishment also made an appearance.
Models wore fringed wigs which transformed from blonde to dark, make-up was minimal at first but became more and more surrealist, with lips stuck on the face creating a distorted, Hannah Hoch collage kind of look. Classic silhouettes were updated with collar embellishments and ornate belts. Boots became more and more detailed, with abstract designs.
Galliano played with merging different styles, such as this polo top reimagined and spliced with a floral dress.
It makes sense that John Galliano was influenced by David Bowie, and the similarities between this look and his Ziggy Stardust character are obvious. Tartan was teamed with sheer to create an edgy yet simultaneously soft look paired with snakeskin and glitter boot/sandals.
Gothic elements were cleverly incorporated, with a bug belt buckle and half made up faces.
Teaming a black jacket with billowing parachute like fabrics in bright colours and stunning boots guaranteed a winning look.
Lips appeared on boots and stuck on the face to create a surrealist look. Designer Y fronts under sheer was certainly original.
Clashing fabrics and feathers added drama created a space-like fantasy.
This closing look was baroque overload, featuring a giant gold bow against a darker background.