So it’s all change from Somerset House to Soho my fashion friends, look out for my live tweeting @DebbieStokoe for all the latest LFW updates! Here are my highlights from Day 1…
Jean Pierre Braganza
I’m a sucker for great use of colour and Jean Pierre Braganza definitely delivered on this today. The first four looks featured a gorgeous print which reminded me of lava, or a bird of paradise. A long sleeved top, a dungaree like vest top, an asymmetric hemmed a line top and a T-shirt all got the print treatment, and it looked especially good with leather and cobalt blue. Then it appeared again on a black and white tuxedo like dress which is sure to be on the red carpet very soon. The other notable print was a Kandinsky/Bauhaus like black, red and grey design. There was an abundance of classic draping as well as clever use of collars and interesting folds. His designs are recognisable for their clean lines and superb craftsmanship, evident in the cut out suit jacket and some show stopping gowns towards the end.
Turkish designer Bora Aksu gave us a lesson in quilting and sheer, with a flourish of individuality as floral paper transfers started off on the hands and worked their way up to the forehead. The palest pink played a prominent role as he played with bows at the neck and many intricate lines, showcasing skills in layering and laser cutting with origami like dresses, sheer jackets and capes. The intricacy was astounding. Then out came a brightly coloured knitted crown adorned with red and orange flowers before more white organza origami pieces which favoured a calf length hem. Then we were treated to stunning layered cocktail dresses, the first thing I thought about when I saw them was my grandma’s crocheted doilies (but the couture version)! Sequinned jackets and floral mini suits followed, then came more intricate knit and embroidery in satsuma orange, canary yellow and magenta pink and we were treated to more of that fabulous crown. Bora definitely deserves to be catapulted to fashion royalty after this regal display.
Who better to kick off LFW than a lady who has put the fun into fashion for the past 50 years? I expected it to be a colour fest and it was. All squiggle prints and a colour palette of lilac, royal blue, orange, well every colour to be exact (she wouldn’t want to limit herself) it certainly wasn’t for wallflowers. Perhaps the accessories and make up even upstaged the clothes a little – the multicoloured visor had a moment, alongside face stickers, out there shades and crazy eye makeup, as well as white plimsolls getting the squiggle print treatment with bright laces. Some models even had matching face squiggles. I gravitated more towards the lilac and royal blue outfits, such as the wide legged trousers and matching crop top. Huge leaf prints also featured on dresses and skirts, but nothing was going to upstage those branded visors. Long live the other great dame of British fashion!
You can always count on Fyodor Golan to be completely original, and today’s show was no exception. An array of roses in a variety of colours trimmed with fur arrived onto the catwalk, firstly on a plastic gilet mac, then on a floor length skirt. We were treated to a whole host of zany prints that popped, from metallic Xs on a neon yellow chiffon to snakeskin set against gold. The orange and gold wave miniskirt was one highlight. The other came in the shape of a retro Transformers robot, which showed up on a sweatshirt, then on an extremely cool slashed hem skirt. The chunky (at least 10cm high) wooden platform heels are also worth a mention (good work on not falling, ladies). There was also some jewellery that definitely had the wow factor – an amazing Transformers earring/necklace and earrings that grazed the collarbone. The last few looks involved lots of tricky bows holding together dresses (and sleeves) and a gorgeous olive green dress which combined the bow work and the ever present roses, which looked like a giant paint palette. We got the picture, guys.